Things about Geyser Installation

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In this post I will certainly define the regular standard requirements of an audio, contemporary high pressure, horizontal setup. The adhering to summary connects to a modern high pressure (400/600Kpa) system usually made by Kwikot South Africa.



Less common are old low pressure systems (100kpa) open pipeline or "Latco" type systems. Know that the parts are NOT compatible in between both distinct systems - High stress and also Reduced stress! It is feasible to get rid of an old low stress system and replace it with a modern high stress system nonetheless - you purchase a new high pressure hot spring and also install it according to the current specification.



The hot spring sits in a tray made of plastic (typically red) or tin plate. I favor the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its got to be there as well as there has to be a drainpipe pipe for it! The drain is a 50mm PVC waste pipeline that drains the tray by piping the water out the home (geyser installation).

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The following most noticeable feature would be the. These are small brass components mounted at the end of a 30cm length of pipeline. The two vacuum breakers stand vertically about 30cm over the hot spring. These are necessary, as they quit water siphoning out the hot spring when the cool supply is stopped.

It can be said that this is the primary feature, but I don't see it. Keep in mind that vacuum cleaner breakers are a reasonably new need - there are still hundreds of old HP systems available without vacuum breakers and I am yet to see one collapse. Just due to the fact that I have not seen it doesn't mean it's not taking place! It is likewise most likely to occur in a multi-story structure since the siphon can draw an extra powerful vacuum.

The cool water side is the side that straight attaches to the drain penis and also goes into the hot spring near the bottom. After the turned off shutoff you would typically locate a Pressure Control Shutoff (PCV). There are a variety of different kinds, mostly made from brass yet some are made from plastic.

This is where the PCV launches pressure as well as this is the pipeline that often leaks. Do not panic if you can not locate the PCV alongside the geyser - it may be mounted up to 10 metres away, typically in an extra accessible position on a wall outside. Occasionally it this remains in a little plastic box outside.

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This is a crucial part that must never ever be tinkered or 'repaired'. This valve should have a steel (copper or steel) pipeline attached to it as well as the pipe need to lead directly out the building. This vent pipe is an important safety feature of the entire system. It needs to be made from copper or steel - plastic.

The T&P shutoff is the least optional element - it needs to exist! - The weight of the hot spring have to be effectively sustained on the roof trusses - a minimum basics of two supports under the 'feet' of the geyser. If it looks unstable get a plumber to examine it visit this site out.

This was not a need on old hot springs, yet it is now as well as it deserves suitable one. The geyser has to be earthed! I have seen several hot springs with the earth wire inapplicable. All the copper pipelines must additionally be earthed as well as bound to the hot spring earth. This is not an insignificant safety measure! Obtain a qualified electrical contractor to check your installation if the bonding is missing out on or looks dodgy.


Once more, these are usually just left existing next to the hot spring. There are basically only 2 primary thermostat types - the modern round "Kwiktherm" in more recent Kwikot geysers as well as the VK (rectangular block) kind in older geysers and in some more recent non-Kwikot systems. The hot spring might be fed (chilly water) with polcop (plastic) pipe - approximately the shut down shutoff, yet the pipe into as well as out of the hot spring need to be copper or galvanized steel.

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The warm water side should be copper, steel or accordingly rated (70) plastic or composite pipeline. Note that you should contend least 1m of copper/steel pipeline out the geyser - you might not link plastic (compound) pipe directly to the hot spring. As above, the PCV and also T&P have to be made of copper or steel - especially the air vent out of the T&P valve.



I have seen a variety of setups where the installer has just run a brief length of 22mm copper right into the drip tray with the idea being that the T&P can air vent directly right into the drip tray. A suggestion since the hot (100 +) water/steam melts the drip tray and the PVC drainpipe pipeline.

The PCV is typically over the hot spring and the cool water flows down right into the hot spring. This is fairly crucial due to the fact that it forms an anti-syphon loophole that avoids the geyser from draining back through the inlet in case of a water failing. If you obtain hot water coming out your cool faucets when the water supply stops working after that this is not working properly.

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